Embracing two worlds

Using technology to reveal the suit’s condition

To learn more about the object, we used our latest technology to analyse the goldwork and other materials with our science team.

Our detective work revealed high silver content in the metal thread of the goldwork embroidery, which explained the partial darkening of the abraded areas (damage caused by friction) on the metal. We also discovered that the padding under the goldwork was made from cellulose base material, commonly found in Japanese westernised court dresses.

The goldwork is in a particularly poor condition; the silk thread core has severely degraded, and no longer provides support for the goldwork. The skilfully coiled metal threads have been lost in places, exposing the padding underneath.

We also found the black wool fabric had been grazed on by moths and, as with many well-used garments, the silk lining is worn. This is especially evident in the areas that see the most use from the wearer, such as around the underarms, collar and opening.

How I approached conservation after my trip

After our thought-provoking research trip, I started looking at the Taireifuku closely. As the suit is extremely delicate, even the slightest handling and vibrations could result in further damage.

My options were sadly limited as conservation could be physically demanding to the object. The intervention could also affect how the object is understood and the story it tells us, both now and in the future.

Maintaining authenticity

‘Doing nothing’ would eliminate conservation risks but this would prevent us displaying the object. My conservation ambition therefore has been ’to do as little as possible’. 

This will preserve as much of the original material as possible and ensure its stability to withstand a temporary display, without adding any parts to the lost areas.

This means I can keep every single authentic part of the object intact, including its construction, the lining and, the tailor’s stitching.

Rather than aiming to make the suit look complete or aesthetically pleasing, my work focuses on preserving the object, including stains as evidence of wear. 

Challenges in preserving the suit

To preserve the suit’s authenticity, we had to navigate a complex pair of challenges. First, its physical vulnerability, and second the original multiple layered construction of the metal thread embroidery, padding, wool, and silk lining.

My preferred method of stitching to stabilise the loose goldwork was not feasible. The tightly woven stiff black wool would not take the finest curved needles.

Even if it did, this would cause unwanted vibrations to the fragile areas. The coiled metal threads were at risk of being caught and uncoiled when inserting needles next to them.

Instead, the loose ends of the gold threads were re-coiled and adhered in position using a little dot of conservation-grade adhesive. This gives physical stability and – in theory – the technique and adhesive are reversible. The areas that remained intact and relatively stable can be left untouched.

You can see how I reattached fragile goldwork threads on the court suit in a short video on Historic Royal Palaces's Instagram.

The Taireifuku’s role in cultural preservation

This project has been a real eye-opener for me, both in terms of the technical challenges involved in conserving such a delicate piece of history and in the larger ethical questions around preserving a cross-cultural object.

My conservation goal has been not only to preserve the history and significance of the Taireifuku but to also ensure that its cultural value - as an authentic record of its use and unique story - is appreciated by many.

I hope that displaying a wide range of our collections like this will play an important role in sharing cultures from across the world and their stories to our diverse visitors and audiences.

Kaori Motaung
Treatment Conservator, Historic Royal Palaces