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New Dress on Display in the Jewel House

The Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection is an amazing Designated Collection of 10,000 items of dress, of national and international importance, cared for by Historic Royal Palaces. 

In January 2026, three new items from the collection went on display in the Crown Jewels exhibition at the Tower of London.

Princess Alice Dress, 1953

This ivory satin dress was worn by Princess Alice, Duchess of Gloucester, for the coronation of her niece, Queen Elizabeth II, in 1953. Richly decorated with sequin and diamanté embroidery, the design allows the gold lamé underskirt to emerge through a floral pattern.

The dress is on loan from Their Royal Highnesses The Duke and Duchess of Gloucester and was designed by the South African couturier Victor Stiebel. Stiebel was a member of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers, alongside Sir Norman Hartnell, whose garments are now part of the Royal Dress Collection. 

Princess Alice had a special connection to the Tower of London. In 1939, she was appointed Head of the Women’s Auxiliary Air Force (WAAF). During the Second World War, the WAAF played a vital role during the Second World War by operating the barrage balloons positioned in the Tower’s moat. Victor Stiebel also designed the uniforms of the WAAF.

Image: On loan from Royal Collection Trust / and with the kind permission of The Duke and Duchess of Gloucester

Herald’s Tabard, 1816–1837

Heralds are officers of the royal household who play a ceremonial role at major state occasions, including coronations and the State Opening of Parliament. They wear special coats called tabards embroidered with royal arms and proclaim the new monarch at the beginning of their reign.

Their origins can be found in the medieval period, when they were experts in heraldry and responsible for announcing and organising tournaments.This tabard displays the royal arms used between 1816 and 1837, combining the three lions of England, the lion rampant of Scotland, and the harp of Ireland.

The central escutcheon (shield) represented the link with the Electorate of Hanover, with two lions for Brunswick, a rampant lion for Lüneburg, and a horse for Saxony. The central escutcheon was removed after the accession of Queen Victoria, and the ending of the direct British royal link with the Kingdom of Hanover.

The embroidery was executed beautifully using very fine materials including richly coloured silks, real gold thread, and little glass beads for the eyes of the lions. All these materials bring their own challenges. Because this tabard has been well used, it was in a fragile condition meaning that our textile conservators spent 250 hours treating and preparing a bespoke mount before it could be safely displayed.

Elizabeth Thompson, Textile Treatment Conservation Supervisor

The tabard is associated with the Scottish herald Walter Ferguson, whose name appears handwritten on a label inside the garment. Ferguson was appointed Bute Herald in 1951, long after the arms shown here had fallen out of use. Whether he acquired the tabard with the intention of wearing it or as an item in his personal collection remains a mystery.

Image: © Historic Royal Palaces

Deputy Governor’s Uniform, 2023

This uniform was worn by Commander Debra Whittingham during the coronation procession of Their Majesties King Charles III and Queen Camilla in 2023. The Tower has long held an important place in the history of coronations, and that of 2023 was no exception. Many members of the Tower community had important roles within the coronation ceremony itself and the wider celebrations.

As Deputy Governor at the time, Commander Whittingham led the Yeoman Body in the procession after the coronation ceremony. As the first female senior officer to serve at the Tower of London this represents an important chapter in the Tower’s history.

Image: © Historic Royal Palaces

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